Century-Old Oden Restaurant "Marutagoshi" Relocates to Asakusa 1-chome

"Marutagoshi," an oden restaurant founded in 1926 (Taisho 15) that had been operating along Umamichi-dori in Asakusa, relocated on October 15 to Asakusa 1-chome (1 Asakusa, Taito-ku). The reasons were the aging of the building and the difficulty of running 40 seats with just three family members. Yasuko Kato, the fourth-generation owner, looks back: "All I thought about was how we could keep going."

Carrying On the Old Shop's Atmosphere

The interior largely carries over the design of the old shop. The single-plank counters were all moved from the old shop and adjusted for the new one. The boards behind the seating and the Marutagoshi (log lattice) that decorated the front of the old shop were also relocated. This was because many regular customers asked, "Please don't spoil the atmosphere." The private chair of the third-generation owner, her father, was also brought over from the old shop. The lettering on the noren curtain and the menu on the wall are handwritten by her father, who has studied calligraphy.

Oden in 24 Varieties, Each with a Nickname

The signature oden comes in 24 varieties, and since the 1950s every one has been given a nickname. Daikon is "Actor," chikuwabu is "Childhood Friend," shumai-maki is "Japan-China Friendship," and quail-egg roll is "Bomb," among others, with the full list displayed on the wall. Orders by nickname are not accepted; the standard playful reply is, "If you read out the red ink, we'll end up in the red!"

For connoisseurs, the recommendation is "suji," a fish paste product made from shark. Many regulars start with sashimi, drink sake, and finish with oden.

Looking Ahead

The fifth generation now works in the kitchen, while Kato looks after the dining area. Customers who knew the old shop, and those who learned of the closure and tracked down the new location, have been visiting. "Steadily and unassumingly, but surely, we aim for 150 years," says Kato. Business hours are 17:00 to 21:30.